About Paula Terrey

Paula Terrey is a writer/editor and lives in Southern California.

Flight to New York

11 March  2000  

Postcard purchased in Egypt by my great-grandmother, Blanche Brechbill, 1927

Postcard purchased in Egypt by my great-grandmother, Blanche Brechbill, 1927

 Lotus.Airport security searched my husband’s tin of mints. It’s the sort of thing I’d normally obsess about, but there’s no time for that now because we’re already on our Egypt Air flight to Cairo via New York and there are too many other things to contemplate.

First thrill: we have a Coptic priest on board. He has a curly gray beard, long black robes that are full in the sleeve and edged at the cuffs with a wide band of red satin, and an expensive looking brown leather briefcase. His hat is made of three black silk donuts, stacked together and topped by an upside down red felt dish embroidered with a Coptic cross in gold thread.

Most of the female passengers are wearing scarves around their hair: chiffon in plain pastels, flower borders, or geometric designs. No full chador. Faces are exposed, skirts are ankle-length, and tops are form-fitting with long sleeves. The materials are strictly synthetic, almost polyester double-knit.

A couple of women near us are traveling with children (young children) and no visible husbands. The kids are in constant motion so an accurate head count is impossible, but my best guess is four or five per woman. One of the mamas has taken off her shoes and I can see henna  tattoos wrapped around her ankle like a chain; the bottoms of her feet are hennaed too. She’s plump, with a smattering of freckles on light coffee skin and a dark scarf around her hair. Her oldest daughter can’t be more than eight or nine, yet she is fully in charge of the small fry. Eventually a couple of men, presumably the husbands, show up and spend a few minutes chatting with the women. The reason for their absence is now clear: they are seated in Business Class.

The gentleman behind us has removed his shoes, a toddler with a loaded diaper is dashing up and down the aisles, and in the restrooms Egypt Air has thoughtfully provided bottles of overpowering lemon cologne that our fellow travelers are using liberally.

 

An Egyptian Odyssey

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Drawing by Leigh Toldi

Drawing by the fabulous and highly talented Leigh Toldi (see link in blogroll)

 

INTRODUCTION

We find after years of struggle that we do not take a trip; a trip takes us.  John Steinbeck

Lotus.In March of 2000 I went to Egypt with my husband, Chaz Benedict. The trip was sponsored by the Ancient Egypt Studies Association in Portland, Oregon (a group that sadly no longer exists) and was organized and managed by Bill and Nancy Petty of the superb Museum Tours .

My goal was to both savor every moment and record as much as I could. I was an unabashed, wide-eyed American tourist. Everything was fascinating and my pen couldn’t move nearly fast enough to suit me. I recorded information as I heard and saw it but it is quite possible that some of  my “facts” are inaccurate. Any errors or omissions are my responsibility. My readers are welcome to leave corrections and comments.

Thousands of Egyptians depend on tourism for their livelihood and Egypt is open for business. If you’ve been thinking of taking a trip, now is the time to do it. Egyptians are without a doubt some of the most talented, friendly, and helpful people on the planet and that remains true in spite of the recent political upheaval. We always felt safe and welcome. I went for the monuments but would gladly have stayed for the people.

And if you love Egypt like I do, then please consider joining The American Research Center in Egypt and affiliate with the Northern California Chapter. (It costs nothing extra and will give you access to our newsletter, The Cartouche.) ARCE is a private, nonprofit organization promoting research on Egyptian history and culture, knowledge about Egypt among the general public, and American-Egyptian cultural ties.

In loving memory of Charles “Chaz” Benedict, my husband and partner in adventure for twenty-five years. May you sail joyfully on the great waters forever. 

May 28, 1958 — March 17, 2015

Chaz

Chaz in King Tutankhamen’s tomb, March 17, 2000